Yuhuang Mountain Free Loop — Zilai Dong to Baguatan Hike

From the trail entrance beside the Nine Kilns Tunnel (九曜山隧道) stone tablet on Hupao Road, follow the stone steps upward through dense mixed forest. The path is entirely shaded by broadleaf canopy from the start. Within minutes you reach Deyi Pavilion (得意亭), a small rest pavilion — your first photo stop and a good place to catch your breath. The path is clearly marked with no forks. Alternative start: If you arrive via bus, the Qingxiuyuan (清修苑) entrance on the south side is quieter and similarly free. Both paths converge before reaching the summit ridge.

Photo suggestion: Deyi Pavilion emerging from dense forest — the first rest stop and photo opportunity.

Continue climbing another 15 minutes to the Seven Star Cauldrons (七星缸), seven massive iron cauldrons arranged in the pattern of the Big Dipper constellation. These were installed during the Qing dynasty as a feng shui fire-suppression measure — the cauldrons were filled with water, and their astronomical alignment was believed to protect the surrounding forest from fire. They are protected relics — do not climb on them. A few steps further brings you to Zilai Dong (紫来洞 / Purple Mist Cave), the route's first highlight. This is a natural limestone karst cave formed over millions of years, one of the 'Seven Ancient Caves of West Lake.' The cave extends approximately 50 metres into the hillside and is noticeably cooler inside (10–15°C cooler than outside in summer). At certain times of the morning (before 11:00 am), shafts of sunlight penetrate the cave mouth through cracks in the ceiling, creating visible Tyndall-effect light beams through suspended dust particles. Bring a phone torch for the darker recesses. Immediately outside the cave entrance, a stone viewing terrace projects from the cliff, offering a stunning elevated view of Baguatan (八卦田) laid out below in its eight-wedge pattern, with the Qiantang River on the horizon. This is the single best photo stop on the route.

Caution: Zilai Dong cave floor is uneven and damp. Use a phone torch. Do not touch cave formations.

Photo suggestion: Zilai Dong's Tyndall light beams and the Baguatan terrace view — the route's most photographed spot.

From Zilai Dong, continue ascending the stone steps for approximately 10 minutes to the Yuhuang Mountain summit, marked by Fuxing Temple (福星观). This is a 1,300-year-old Taoist temple (one of Hangzhou's most significant) with active incense burners, a small shrine hall, and resident monks. Immediately adjacent is Jianghu Yilan Pavilion (江湖一览亭 / River-Lake Panorama Pavilion), the summit's viewing platform. The 360° view is exceptional: West Lake and Leifeng Pagoda to the north, the Qiantang River and Liuhe Pagoda to the south, Baguatan directly below, and the full Hangzhou city skyline to the east. On clear days you can see the entire Su Causeway and the three islands of West Lake. The pavilion's name comes from a Ming dynasty observation — the strategist Liu Bowen (刘伯温) is said to have stood here and described the view as '乾坤一望' (a single glance encompassing heaven and earth). The Fuxing Temple dining hall serves vegetarian noodles (~28 RMB) if you are hungry.

Photo suggestion: Jianghu Yilan Pavilion — the summit 360° view over West Lake and the Qiantang River.

Descend from Fuxing Temple along the north-west path toward Old Yuhuang Palace (老玉皇宫), approximately 10 minutes downhill. Old Yuhuang Palace is a smaller, quieter Taoist temple that predates Fuxing Temple — it was the original Jade Emperor temple on the mountain. The highlight here is the colossal ancient wisteria vine (千年油麻古藤) that coils around the temple entrance and twists across the path — one of the most photographed trees in the Hangzhou hills, its thick twisted trunk creating a natural archway that is particularly popular with children. The temple serves vegetarian noodles (~18 RMB) during lunch hours and has a small shop selling drinks. Public toilets are available here.

Photo suggestion: The thousand-year-old wisteria vine at Old Yuhuang Palace — a natural archway over the temple entrance.

From Old Yuhuang Palace, take the southward descending path toward Baguatan (八卦田遗址公园 / Eight Trigrams Field Park), approximately 15 minutes downhill. The path passes Yi Jiang Ting (挹江亭) with a final view over the river, then the Wuyue Jiaotan Ruins (吴越郊坛遗址), a two-tiered stone platform from the Wuyue Kingdom (907–978 CE), and Tianlong Temple Cliff Carvings (天龙寺造像), a set of Northern Song Buddhist rock reliefs beside the path. Baguatan is a 4-hectare plot that was the Southern Song emperor's personal ceremonial farmland. The field is divided into eight wedge-shaped sectors planted in seasonal rotation: rapeseed flowers (March–April, bright yellow — the most photogenic season), green rice (May–September), golden harvest (October–November), and bare earth (December–February). Walk the perimeter path or follow internal paths between the crop wedges. From here, the metro station is a 15-minute walk east. The finish area has street food vendors and shaded benches.

Photo suggestion: Baguatan from ground level — the eight-wedge pattern of the Southern Song emperor's ceremonial farmland.