Bagua Tian to Changqiao Park via Yuhuangshan Hike

Exit Shuichengqiao Metro Station (水澄桥站, Line 4) via Exit A. Walk north along Huyu Road for approximately 10 minutes to reach the southern entrance of Bagua Tian Park (八卦田遗址公园 / Eight Trigrams Field Park). This 4-hectare plot was the Southern Song emperor's personal farmland — the emperor would plough the first ceremonial furrow each spring as a Confucian ritual, followed by his ministers planting each of the eight wedge-shaped sectors in rotation. The field is planted in seasonal rotation: rapeseed flowers (March–April), green rice (May–September), golden harvest (October–November), and bare earth (December–February). Walk the perimeter path or follow internal paths between the crop wedges. This is the warm-up — flat, easy, and scenic. Exit the park at the north-west corner to begin the ascent.

Photo suggestion: Bagua Tian from ground level with the Yuhuangshan ridge rising behind — the emperor's field leading the eye upward to the day's climb.

From Bagua Tian's north-west exit, pick up the Ci Yun Ling Ancient Path (慈云岭古道), a stone-paved Song Dynasty route that climbs the southern slope of Yuhuangshan. The path ascends steadily but gently through forest — this is the day's most sustained climbing section. After approximately 15 minutes you reach the first waypoint: Tianlong Temple Cliff Carvings (天龙寺造像), a set of Northern Song Buddhist rock reliefs carved into the cliff face beside the path. The carvings are partially eroded but retain a palpable sense of age — the principal Buddha figure and two attendant bodhisattvas are still clearly discernible. Continue another 10 minutes to the Wuyue Jiaotan Ruins (吴越郊坛遗址 / Wuyue Suburban Altar), a two-tiered stone platform that served as a ceremonial heaven-worshipping altar for the Wuyue Kingdom (907–978 CE). The upper and lower platforms remain intact enough to read the original layout. From the altar, continue up the stone steps — after another 15 minutes you reach Zilai Dong (紫来洞 / Purple Mist Cave), the route's first major highlight. This natural limestone cave was used by Taoist meditators for centuries. The cave is cool year-round and at its best in the mid-to-late morning (9:00–11:00 am) when shafts of sunlight penetrate the cave mouth, creating visible Tyndall-effect light beams through suspended dust particles. Immediately outside the cave entrance, a stone viewing terrace projects from the cliff, offering the single best elevated view of Bagua Tian from above — the complete eight-wedge pattern laid out directly below with the Qiantang River on the horizon.

Caution: The climbing from Bagua Tian to Zilai Dong is the steepest sustained section of the route. Take breaks at the altar ruins and the cave. The cave floor is uneven and can be damp — use your phone torch. The Tyndall light effect inside the cave is best before 11:00 am — arrive earlier if cave photography is a priority.

Photo suggestion: Zilai Dong viewing terrace with Bagua Tian below and the Qiantang River on the horizon — the single most photographed elevated perspective of the Eight Trigrams Field.

From Zilai Dong, continue climbing the stone steps toward the summit of Yuhuangshan (玉皇山 / Jade Emperor Mountain, 239 m). After approximately 15 minutes you reach Fuxing Temple (福星观 / Temple of Fortune), a well-maintained Taoist temple complex with active incense burners and a small shrine hall. This is one of the more significant Taoist temples in the West Lake area, and its hilltop position gives it a commanding presence. Immediately adjacent to the temple, the Jianghu Yilan Pavilion (江湖一览亭 / 'River-Lake Panorama Pavilion') marks the true high point of Yuhuangshan. The view is exceptional: West Lake and Leifeng Pagoda directly to the north, the Qiantang River and Liuhe Pagoda to the south, the entire Su Causeway and Little Yingzhou island forming the middle ground. With a telephoto lens, you can capture Leifeng Pagoda, the Hangzhou Global Dome (环球中心), and Wangchen Pavilion (望宸阁) in a single aligned frame. This is the last panoramic viewpoint of the day — from here, the route descends toward the lake.

Photo suggestion: The northward view from Jianghu Yilan Pavilion — Leifeng Pagoda rising above the treeline with West Lake's Su Causeway and the city skyline beyond.

From Fuxing Temple, follow the descending stone path north-west toward Laoyuhuang Palace (老玉皇宫 / Old Jade Emperor Temple), approximately 15 minutes downhill. Laoyuhuang Palace sits at a key trail junction and features a colossal ancient wisteria vine (千年油麻古藤) that coils around the temple entrance — one of the most photographed trees in the Hangzhou hills. The temple serves vegetarian noodles (素面, ~18 RMB) during lunch hours (11:00–12:30) and has free drinking water and a public toilet. This is the last reliable food-and-water stop on the route. From Laoyuhuang Palace, the path continues north through mixed forest, descending gently toward the Fenghuangshan (Phoenix Mountain) ridge. After approximately 20 minutes you reach Baishé Feidu (白蛇飞渡 / 'White Snake Flying Bridge'), a white steel-and-timber S-curved pedestrian bridge that arcs dramatically through the forest canopy. The bridge has become a well-known local photo spot for its sculptural leading lines through the treetops. The best shooting position is from the small earthen slope immediately after the bridge exit — this elevation captures the full S-curve in a single frame.

Caution: The descent path from Fuxing Temple to Laoyuhuang Palace has several unmarked forks — follow signposts for 老玉皇宫 consistently. Do not take side paths labelled 樱花池 (Cherry Blossom Pond) unless you intend the longer alternative descent.

Photo suggestion: The S-curve of Baishé Feidu bridge shot from the small slope after the bridge exit — the full steel arc through the forest canopy.

From Baishé Feidu, the path continues northward, crossing Wan Song Ling Road (万松岭路). Continue through the Nanping Mountain (南屏山) forest trail — predominantly level or gently descending stone steps under a broadleaf canopy. After approximately 15–20 minutes, the path emerges at Changqiao Park (长桥公园 / Long Bridge Park), the route's finish. Changqiao Park occupies the south-eastern shore of West Lake, at the foot of Nanping Mountain. The park is famous locally as the best free vantage point for Leifeng Pagoda sunset reflections (雷峰夕照) — one of the Ten Scenes of West Lake. The name 'Changqiao' (长桥 / Long Bridge) is a misnomer — the bridge is short, giving rise to the well-known West Lake saying: '孤山不孤，断桥不断，长桥不长' (Solitary Hill isn't solitary, Broken Bridge isn't broken, Long Bridge isn't long). Changqiao is one of West Lake's 'Three Romance Bridges' alongside Broken Bridge — legend holds that Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai walked back and forth across this bridge eighteen times during their farewell, making the journey feel long despite the bridge's short physical length. The park's position directly opposite Leifeng Pagoda makes it the premier sunset photography spot in Hangzhou: the pagoda, the lake, and the setting sun align perfectly from the park's shoreline. Adjacent to the main park, the Changqiao Xi Wetland Garden (长桥溪水生态修复公园) is a 4.4-hectare ecological wetland established in 2004 as a water remediation project for West Lake. The wetland functions as a natural filtration system — water entering from Changqiao Creek passes through settling ponds, reed beds, and aquatic plant communities before reaching the lake, improving water quality from Class V to Class II. The garden has developed a unique moss garden (苔藓园) micro-habitat along its shaded stream channels, where several species of native Hangzhou bryophytes thrive. Kingfishers (翠鸟) are regularly spotted here — two dedicated observation points exist along the stream course.

Caution: Bring snacks and extra water for the final section — there are no food vendors on the Baishé Feidu to Changqiao Park stretch. Changqiao Park itself has no food stalls.

Photo suggestion: Leifeng Pagoda sunset reflection at Changqiao Park — the pagoda silhouetted against golden sky over West Lake. Best in autumn (October–November) when the sun aligns perfectly.